Origins of modern cookery

Escoffier 

Georges Auguste Escoffier (1847-1935) was the great chef of this century and is revered by chefs and gourmets as the ―Father of Modern Cookery‖. His two main contributions were the simplification of classical cuisine and the classical menu and the reorganization of the kitchen. It is hard to believe that Escoffier‘s elaborate multi-course banquets are a simplification of anything. But in the typical banquet menu of the eighteenth century, each course consisted of as many as 20 separate dishes – or more! – Mostly a variety of meats and poultry all placed on the table at once. Guests help themselves to the few dishes they could reach. Carême began the reform, but Escoffier brought the menu into the twentieth century. Escoffier rejected what he called the ―general confusion‖ of the old menus in which sheer quantity seemed to be the most important factor. Instead he called for order and diversity and emphasized the careful selection of one another harmoniously and that would delight the taste with their delicacy and simplicity. (Fig.1A) Escoffier‘s books and recipes are still important reference works for professional chefs. The basic cooking methods and preparations we study today are based on Escoffier‘s work. Escoffier‘s second major achievement, the reorganization of the kitchen, resulted in a streamlined workplace that was better suited for turning out the simplified dishes and menus that he instituted. The system he established is still in use today, especially in some large hotels and full-service restaurants. Modern developments: Today‘s kitchens look much different from those of Escoffier‘s day, even though our basic cooking principles are the same. Also, the dishes we eat have gradually changed due to the innovations and creativity of modern chefs. The process of simplification and refinement, to which Carême and Escoffier made monumental contributions, is still going on, adapting classical cooking to modern conditions and tastes. Development of New Equipment: We take for granted such basic equipment as gas and electric ranges and ovens and electric refrigerators. But even these essential tools did not exist until fairly recently. The easily controlled heat of modern cooking equipment, as well as motorized food cutters, mixers, and other processing equipment, has greatly simplified food production. Research and technology continue to produce sophisticated tools for the kitchen. Some of these products, such as tilting skillets and steam-jacketed kettles, can do many jobs and are popular in many kitchens. Others can do specialized tasks rapidly and efficiently, but their usefulness depends on volume, because they are designed to do only a few jobs. Modern equipments have enabled many food service operations to change their production methods. With sophisticated cooling, freezing, and heating equipment, it is possible to do some preparation farther in advance and in large quantities. Some large multiunit operations prepare food for all their units in one large central commissary. The food is prepared in quantity, packaged, and chilled of frozen, and then heated or cooked to order in the individual units. Development and Availability of New Food Products: Modern refrigeration and rapid changes in eating habits has changed the lifestyle of the people over the years. For the first time, fresh foods of all kinds – meats, fish, vegetables, and fruits – became available all year. Exotic delicacies can now be shipped from anywhere in the world and arrive fresh and in peak condition. The development of preservation techniques, not just refrigeration but also freeze drying, vacuum packing, and irradiation, increased the availability of most foods and has also made affordable some foods that were once rare and expensive. Techniques of food preservation also have had another effect. It has now become possible to do some or most of the preparation and processing of foods before shipping rather than in the food service operation itself. Thus, convenience foods have accounted for an increasing share of the total food market. Some professional cooks think of new convenience food products and new equipment as a threat to their own positions. They fear that these products will eliminate the need for skilled chefs, because everything will be prepared or will be done by machine. However, it still requires skill and knowledge to handle convenience products properly. The quality of the product as served depends on how well the cook handles it. Furthermore, many new food products and new types of equipment are intended to do work that takes little or no skill, such as peeling potatoes or puréeing vegetables. Convenience foods and advanced equipment free cooks from some of the drudgery so that they have more time to spend on those jobs that require skill and experience. Sanitary and nutritional awareness: The development of the sciences of microbiology and nutrition had a great impact on food service. One hundred years ago there was little understanding of the causes of food poisoning and food spoilage. Food handling practices have come a long way since Escoffier‘s day. There was also little knowledge of nutritional principles in the last century. Today, nutrition is an important part of a cook‘s training. Customers are also more knowledgeable, and the demand for healthful, wellbalanced menus is growing. Modern cooking styles: All these developments have helped change cooking styles, menus, and heating habits. The evolution of cuisine that has been going on for hundreds of years still continues. Changes occur not only because of our reactions to culinary traditions. Two opposing forces can be seen at work throughout the history of cooking. One is the urge to simplify, to eliminate complexity and ornamentation, and instead to emphasize the plain, natural tastes of basic, fresh ingredients. The other is the urge to invent, to highlight the creativity of the chef, with an accent on fancier, more complicated presentations and procedures. Both these forces are valid and healthy; they continually refresh and renew the art of cooking. Recently history provides an example of these trends. Reacting to what they saw as heavy, stodgy, overly complicated classical cuisine, a number of French chefs in the late 1960s and early 1970s become famous for a style called nouvelle cuisine (―new cooking‖). They rejected many traditional principles, such as a dependence on flour to thicken sauces, and instead urged simpler, more natural flavours and preparations, with lighter sauces and seasonings and shorter cooking times. Very quickly, however, this new, ―simpler‖ style became extravagant and complicated, famous for strange combinations of foods and fussy, ornate arrangements and designs. By the 1980s, many people were already saying that nouvelle cuisine was dead. It isn‘t dead, of course, any more than the cuisine of Escoffier is dead. The best achievements of nouvelle cuisine have taken a permanent place in the classical tradition. Meanwhile, many of the excesses have already been forgotten. It is probably fair to say that most of the best new ideas and the lasting accomplishments have been those of classically trained chefs with a solid grounding in the basics. Nowadays the traditional dishes and regional specialties are the product of cooking traditions brought over by immigrant settlers, combined with the indigenous ingredients of a bountiful land. For many years, critics often argued that most menus offered the same monotonous, mediocre food. Recently, by contrast, cooking has become fashionable, and almost any local specialty is declared ―classic‖. The fact is, however, that in any country one finds both good and bad food. It takes a skilled cook with a knowledge of the basics to prepare exceptional food, whether it is American, classical French, Chinese, Indian or any other. The growth of food service holds great promise for new cooks and chefs. Technology will continue to make rapid changes in our industry, and men and women are needed who can adapt to these changes and respond to new challenges. Although automation and convenience foods will no doubt grow in importance, there will always be a need for imaginative chefs who can create new dishes and develop new techniques and styles and for skilled cooks who can apply both old and new techniques to produce high-quality foods in all kinds of facilities, from restaurants and hotels to schools and hospitals.

NOUVELLE CUISINE

Nouvelle cuisine began in the early 70‘s in France when 2 gastronomic critics/reviewers named H. Gault and C. Millau decided they were fed up to eat the same classical food every day. They spoke of changes to a handful or leading French chefs and those decided to use their imagination to produce something new. The chefs were named P and J. Troisgros (2 brothers) M. Guerard, A. Chapel, R. Verge and of course Paul Bocuse. (Fig.1B) Their first action on food was:  Smaller portions but more dishes on the menu.  Served on plate so that service staff did not destroy presentation effect when handling with service spoon-fork.  Sauces without flour.  Shorter cooking times.  Follow seasonal changes in foodstuffs and buy from the best suppliers.  Presenting unusual combinations. The revolution started with original salads, vegetable terrines fish cooked pink on the bone and very high prices but the movement held its course and almost 20 years later, not one famous restaurant serves classical food. Gault and Milan monthly publication increased its production from 10,000 copies to 20 lakhs copies per month. The latest tendency of Nouvelle cuisine is to come back to the origin and serve less dishes but of the highest quality. Amazing but true, Paul Bocuse latest best seller is spit roasted chicken, and chapel‘s one is veal chop in its juices. Nouvelle cuisine has been influenced by Chinese cuisine- crisp vegetable, stir- frying and steaming, by Indian spices: ginger, coriander, jeera, saffron and by technologyMicrowave ovens, high pressure steamer and vacuum cooking. This style of cooking was developed by Paul Bocuse who researched the subject thoroughly both in theory and practice before introducing it to the catering world. Through his work Bocuse has reminded us of the fundamental principles of cookery and the full potential of the commodities and foods used. The aim is to serve food with its natural taste undisguised by either the cooking process of accompanying sauces or garnishes. Food should always be fresh, the daily menu being composed of dishes made of commodities purchased on the same day rather than the menu dictating what should be bought. One result of this approach is that many establishments now offer customers a ―menu surprise‖ composed of food in season and at the height of their perfection. These dishes, often prepared in an original way, may not appear on the printed menu since their availability may be unpredictable. Under this approach, food is very lightly cooked so that as little as possible of the nutritional value is allowed to leach out. The guideline is just to cook or, in some instances, undercook foods so that their individual flavours textures and characteristics may be enjoyed to the fullest. General principles of Nouvelle Cuisine: There currently some debate as to what is actually meant by nouvelle cuisine. It has been referred to as ―Classique Nouveau‖ implying that it is not new but a development of the classical French style. It is not the author‘s intention to enter in to such debate but to present the current trends and developments to the student so that he may seek out further information and make up his own mind as to what the concept implies. The underlying principles associated with nouvelle cuisine may be identified as follows. It must, however, be remembered that there many interpretations of this style and that the repertoire is continually developing. With the exception of basic stocks most other foods are cooked to the customer‘s order. The basic sauces béchamel, veloute, and demi-glace play no part in any dish. Dishes based on or featuring these or indeed any roux based thickened sauces, gravies, soups, stews, or braised items, are completely avoided. Convenience foods are also avoided. All fish, meats, poultry, game, vegetables and as on should be purchased fresh each day. The foods, their texture, and accompanying sauces should be extremely light and free from any trace of grease, with a natural blend of colours, textures, and flavours. Vegetables are only lightly cooked they should be crisp, nutty, and full of natural flavour. Presentations are more important than display when serving. The chef himself should arrange the food on the plate just as he wishes the customers to view it rather than a waiter serve it from the silver dish. The plate itself is considered part of the dish so care should be taken to select those of goods quality with suitable shapes and patterns that will complement the food being served. The actual arrangement of the food should give full regard to the shapes of the plate and the contrasting shapes, colours, and textures of the items of food to be placed on it to achieved maximum visual appeal. The sizes of the individual portions are smaller than is usual with more traditional style of cooking. Since every morsel of food should be cooked to perfection‘s it is hoped there should be no waste. Indian chefs new practice Nouvelle cuisine using local products. In Bombay –RENDEZ VOUS and MENAGE A TROIS -(TAJ), LEELA PENTA (Waterfall café) –OBEROI Rotisserie. In Delhi - TAJ PALACE (orient express), HYATT (Valentino). In conclusive, we can say that haute cuisine has lost its throne to the profit of Nouvelle cuisine which has reached standards of quality certainly as high (if not more) as the ageing Escoffier‘s Haute cuisine.